The splendor that is Bagan
 Bagan
(Pagan) is, in many aspects, one of the
most remarkable religious cities in the
world. Today, Bagan’s glory days may be
over, but what remain are the fantastic
temple ruins, ranking as the most amazing
sight in Myanmar and a genuine wonder of
the world. The remains of the Bagan’s primetime,
approximately around 2300 identifiable pagodas,
monasteries, ordination halls, libraries,
caves of all sizes and in a bewildering
variety of shapes, mostly built between
11th & 13th centuries in a period of 250-year
by bricks, woods, sandstones, and stuccos,
are overwhelming in an area of 40-sq kilometers
(16-sq mile). Bagan was reputedly founded
by King Tamodaritt in AD108 by nineteen
big Pyu villages, while the scholars mostly
agreed the foundation of Bagan was from
1044 by a Burmese King Anawrahtta with a
total of eleven kings throughout the dynasty.
The conquest over Mon kingdom in 1057AD
was a turning point in Bagan’s history,
entering into the temple building era as
the southern school of Buddhism was introduced
by the Mon people and many of the skilled
artists & architects were imported from
India. In 1287, Kublai Khan’s forces invaded
Bagan but it’s continued as an important
centre of Buddhist faith and the culture
of Burmese people well into mid 14th century,
and then left deserted over centuries.
 The
Great Venetian traveler Marco Polo witnessed
Bagan just before Bagan was succumbed to
its Mongolian conquerors. In his evocative
description: “The towers are built of fine
stone, and one has been covered with gold
a finger thick, so that the tower appears
to be of solid gold. Another is covered
with silver in a similar manner and appears
to be made of solid silver. The King of
Mien Guo [Myanmar called by the Chinese]
caused these towers to be built as a monument
to his magnificence and for the benefit
of his soul. They make one of the finest
sights in the world, being exquisitely finished,
splendid and costly. When illuminated by
the sun they are especially brilliant and
can be seen from the great distance”
Today, what Marco Polo has seen in 13th
century may not be exactly the same but
much of the glory that was Bagan still remains.
One can stay in Bagan for days from leisurely
marvel around the thousands of ruins by
car or more preferably by a horse cart or
on a bicycle, find your own temple for an
unforgettable Bagan sunset as the sun drops,
or relax over a cool drink by the bank of
great Ayeyarwaddy River. There are also
interesting places to make a day out like
Mt Popa, the abode of Nat Spirits or the
centre of spirit worshipping while discovering
the typical Burmese villages and experience
the dry zone, or visit to the another but
smaller archaeological site in Salay that
is unrivaled to Bagan but worth for an alternative.
For those who acquainted with the temples
can be visited to the nearby Burmese villages
to study the life-style or chat with the
locals and visit their home in surprise.
Nyaung U Market
 A
busy bustling place, best visited in the
morning where hundreds of locals exchange
their goods typically produced from central
Myanmar including various shapes & sizes
of woven bamboo baskets, cheroots made from
both tree leaves and corn husks, stalks
of Thanaka, palm sugar balls made from sweet
toddy juice, packets of bean paste, trays
of fresh vegetables & fruits, and all the
materials & groceries for cooking of a Burmese
family needs. Above all the most interesting
are the vendor women with beautiful patterns
of Thanaka pasted on their cheeks. And of
course, there are a lot of souvenirs of
tourists alike from inferior quality lacquer-wares,
colorful outfits, and postcards to woodcarvings.
And you need a lot of bargaining too.
Shwezigon Paya
 A
prototype of all later Myanmar styled stupas
from 11th Century. The original builder
was the great king Anawrahtta, but his son
by law and the successor king Kyansit finished
it. The materials used to build this monument
were the sandstones transported in a long
line of 20km from the quarry to the construction
site with relay method. Actually, the king
built this to house the holy relics he brought
from China and Sri Lanka and also to mark
the northern corner of his majestic city.
The original stone inscriptions with Mon
language erected by King Kyansit can be
found at the western entrance. The 4-mit
high Gupta styled bronze statues are housed
inside the small temple of each four side.
This paya is best visited in the morning
to avoid the intense heat and warm marble-paved
walkways. One can also see 11th century
original Sakkar (the king of Nats), and
reproduced Nat figures numbering 36 in total.
Kyansitther Cave
A cave in Bagan area is an ideal place
for those who are practicing the meditation
in a warm & dusty environment. The dark
cells inside the caves provide coolness,
serenity and cut the noises from the outside
world so that one can concentrate. There
are several caves like Kyansitthar in Bagan
but this one is most accessible and a fine
example. There are also interesting frescos
using black and yellow pigments mainly,
suggesting of its early age. Although the
cave is named after famous king Kyansit
of 1090-1113, archeologists suggest that
it might have been built that of his pre-successor.
Gubyauk Gyi of Wetkyi Inn
Village
Gubyauk Gyi or the “Great Painted Cave”
may not be the original name. But this small,
early period, Indian style corncob topped
monument known to the locals as “kalar kyaung”
or the “Indian Monastery” has rich polychromatic
mural paintings of black & white pigments
are rated first-class of Bagan’s murals.
The access to the temple terrace has been
banned from 2006.
 Htilominlo
Temple
Built in 1218, Htilominlo is the one
of the biggest, multi-storied transitional
style of the last period of Bagan. The name
has various assumptions: The Blessing of
the Three Worlds or the “favored by the
King, favored by the Umbrella”; a story
you should hear from your guide. It has
fine exterior pilaster-carvings, while interior
mural painting have demised by the temple
dwellers of WWII period and impassioned
Buddhists who white-washed some parts of
the temple walls that they thought dirty-looking.
Upali Thein
This one is a fine example of an ordination
hall in 13th century, made by the bricks
to imitate the wooden style architecture,
while most of those in Bagan period might
have built by the woods. Theoretically,
Theins should be built on an island on a
river surrounded by the water, like the
one built in the middle of Kalayni River
of Sri Lanka. The brightly painted 17th
century mural paintings on the interior
walls depicted the renunciation of different
Buddhas.
Khinminga Complex
The Khinminga temple stands in the midst
of pagoda studded area. The temple terrace
can be reached via narrow, dimly lit, and
uneven steps. It’s worth a climb to see
Bagan’s most famous monuments near and far.
Ananda Temple & Brick Monastery
 Probably
the most well-known monument in Bagan, the
Ananda temple was built by King Kyansitthar
sometimes around 1090 AD. The temple architecture
is the achievement of apex of the first
temple building period, from the single
entrance east facing dimly lit single passage
to the four-sided entrances, multi-passages,
well ventilated & abounded light. There
are some fascinating stories to be heard
from your guide on this monument. The two
9.5 meters high 11th century original standing
Buddhas with perspective effect on the faces
can be found on the south and the north
sides. The photo enthusiastic should see
the works of award-winning photographer’s
gallery at the northern entrance stall at
least to get an idea of how to better compose
the picturesque Bagan’s temples. The brick
monastery lies at the northwest corner of
Ananda. The brightly painted frescos depicting
the daily lives of Bagan, the traders from
16th & 17th centuries, the kings and his
armies etc… although the paintings are not
that of Bagan period.
Tharabar Gateway
The last remain of original twelve gates,
of some were disappeared during the war
with Mongolians and some washed away by
mighty Ayerwaddy river, is dated back to
849AD. There are also two most powerful
and respected figures of Myanmar Nat pantheon
inside the niches of the gateway namely
Mr. Handsome and Sister Golden Face.
Pitaka Taik
Pitaka means the holy Buddhist canons,
whereas the Taik is any form of masonry
buildings. Thus, Pitaka Taik is a place
where the Buddhist scriptures are stored
or a Library. Originally built by the great
King Anawrahtta after his conquest over
Mon Kingdome to store the most-wanted holy
scriptures that he brought back to Bagan
on the back of 32 elephants. In 1873, King
Bodawpaya, had it renovated. Due to the
destructive 1975 earthquake, now the library
is framed by the steel supportive and access
to the inner chamber is prohibited.
Shwegugyi Temple
 Literally
means the Great Golden Cave Temple, unusually
built on the raised platform was probably
done so in order to magnify this holy site
than to the king’s palace right beside the
temple. The temple was built in 1131 & finished
within six months by the widely travelled
king named Alaungsithu, who was brutally
killed by his own son inside this temple.
It has remarkably scenic terrace and usually
avoided by the group tours. Beware of the
inferior quality lacquer-wares and fraudulent
stone sellers particularly in this place.
Thatbyinnyu Temple
Another merit of King Alaungsithu, Thatbyinnyu
temple was built in 1140AD to be the highest
in Bagan with 61 meter. This completely
white-washed temple has airy passages but
ascend to the other three stories are banned.
This temple is most visited by the Burmese
pilgrims only. Some scholars suggest that
this temple was never been consecrated or
used by the monks as party monastery and
a library. There is an interesting stupa
called ‘tally paya’ built by the bricks
of every 10,000 bricks that were used to
build the big temple. Thatbyinnyu means
temple of omniscience.
Nathlaung Kyaung
Probably the only Vishnu temple in Bagan,
Nathlaung Kyaung was believe to be built
around 930s AD, while others suggest to
the early 11th century. Records have been
suggested that many Indian labors or architects
were import from India during the Bagan’s
primetime, and this temple was supposed
to be used by some of these people. With
King Anawrahtta efforts to banish the worshipping
of other beliefs than Theravada Buddhism,
assumptions have been made that this temple
was the place where all the Nat figures
and statues from other religions were confined
in this place following to the name Nathlaung
kyaung, the place where the Nat spirits
are confined. Another meaning of Nathlaung
Kyaung is, the monastery where the Nat is
reclining… as there is a figure of Brahma
reclining on the cosmic serpent inside the
inner sanctum. Most of the original figures
have been restored here. There are 10-lifes
of Brahma figures or the avatars inside
the niches where Buddha is the ninth.
 Pahtothamya
One of the oldest temples in Bagan, one
can easily recognized its age from the outside.
Feathering the first period of Bagan temple,
the dimly lit corridors, curvilinear roofs
to let the light in through domer windows,
and straight-arched vestibule are something
to wonder of this temple. It also has beautiful
plaster works on the arch pediments and
niches and beautiful frescos to be discovered
on the walls.
Gubyaukgyi of Myinkabar
Village
Another Gubyaukgyi temple with the same
name as the one in Wetkyi Inn is actually
located in different village. This temple
is also known as the “Love Temple” following
to a popular father & son story. Actually,
Gubyaukgyi is also famous for a stone inscription
written by four languages, where the first
Burmese writing is first seen in the history.
The temple featured the first transition
period with curvilinear roofs often characterized
as Mon architecture. There beautiful plaster
carvings on the exterior walls but it is
best known for colorful mural painting in
the interior walls as the name comes… the
great painted cave. The temple is dated
to 1113, the year King Kyansit passed away
and his grandson Alaungsithu ascended the
throne.
Manuha temple
 Named
after the captive king Manuha of the Mon’s
kingdom, this temple was built by the king
himself to express his stress and discomfort
being as a captive king in the hand of his
own enemy. Although it looks unimpressive
from the outside, this temple houses figures
of Buddhas that are far larger than life
or odd to the Buddhist iconography. There
are three gigantic Buddha images placed
uncomfortably inside the small sanctums
and a dead Buddha with a smile on his face.
Nanapaya Temple
One of only four monuments built using
sandstones. A small but worth a visit to
see sandstone carvings of Hamsa birds on
the exterior walls as well as carved perforated
windows. The plinth, where one a free standing
Buddha or a Hindu god, is now empty, which
is the major cause of hot debates among
the scholars, whether the temple was for
Hindu gods or the Buddhists’. The carved
pillars contain the finest sandstone bas-reliefs
portraying Kitamuka figures (Hindu god of
death).
Abeyadana Temple
Another merit of King Kyansit (1090-1113AD),
Abeyadana temple might have built a little
earlier than Ananda temple in late 11th
century by characterizing its architecture.
In fact, this small temple contains the
first rated mural paintings on its interior
walls. The paintings have wide-ranging figures
from Hindu deity to Mahayana Buddhism, with
partly tantric influence. The murals here
were conserved by the UNESCO.
Damayazika
 One
of sixteen pentagonal-shaped monuments from
Bagan period, where scholars suggest these
are the earliest surviving five-sided buildings
of the world. There are five small temples
to house the images of four last Buddhas
and the future Buddha, a clear concept of
Mahayana Buddhism. This stupa was built
around 1197 by King Narapatisithu, a period
when the belief of Mahayana Buddhism should
be terminated with the continuous efforts
of kings of Bagan dynasty. It is best visited
around 4:00pm with the sunlight from the
west to the awe-inspiring eastward views
of Bagan’s plain.
Sulamani Temple
The name Sulamani drives from the name
of temple located in the Buddhist heaven,
Tavasttitama. This temple was built by King
Narapatisithu in 1183, and architecturally
characterized as the achievement of Myanmar
style with flat-roofs in sequences producing
pyramidal effect. It has beautiful plaster
works on the exterior walls, and the interior
walls have mural paintings dated from 17
& 18th century, Inwa period.
Dhamayangyi Temple
 The
biggest temple in Bagan, and one can never
wrong to orientate this pyramidal shaped
temple from any accessible temple terrace.
The temple was built in 1167 by the King
called Narathu, famed for his bad deeds
for killing his wife of an Indian emperor’s
daughter, and his own father by smothering
on his sickbed. The king ruled only for
three years but he managed to finish this
massive one in a short time. The temple
is also rated as “best brickwork” as he
often came to inspect the construction work
and examine the brickworks by pushing a
needle pin between two bricks. The punishment
was awful. He cut the hands of masons if
the pin went through! Later he was assassinated
by eight Indians who where disguise as the
Brahmans sent by the angry Indian emperor.
Some also suggest that it was his temple
builders as revenge. The temple was built
on the same form of Ananda, with two passage
ways. But the inner passage was blocked
by the bricks and the rubbles without knowing
the reason. It might be the payback of his
workers or to support the heavy top by filling
up the inner sanctum as a result of architectural
faults.
Lacquer Wares
 The
art of making lacquer ware can be found
throughout Asia, yet it has various techniques
to apply, different type of products, and
diverse beauties. The production of Myanmar
lacquer ware, can be traced back to Bagan
era according to the archaeological findings,
was probably arrived from northern Thailand
or south China. In Myanmar alone, you can
find four kinds of product variation excluding
recent techniques adopted from Japan, Vietnam
and China. For the visitors to Myanmar,
various lacquer ware items ranging from
simple boxes, flower vases, to the blinds
are probably the best souvenirs from Myanmar.
Of course, it is best to hunt the ones you
like from the production workshops based
in Bagan, although you can find cheap items
selling in the market and pagoda stalls.
One should be aware that lacquer wares can
be produced within three days to one week
when it is necessary to make it cheap. The
authentic lacquer wares need from at least
five to six months depending on the number
of colors used, design patterns, and the
number of layers. The right type of bamboo
or the wood & the amount of time for seasoning,
the quality of lacquer (produce from a tree
called Kusam, Melanorihia Usitatar), following
the correct steps to produce, and the design
workmanship can largely affect the price
of a lacquer item.
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